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Vyne troškinta
triušiena

Rekomenduoja Dmitrijus Babenka

6 porcijoms reikės
Triušio (maždaug 1,5 kg)
200–300 g
baltojo vyno
200 g alyvuogių aliejaus
Mėsos
sultinio
Sviesto
Bulvių
Druskos ir
pipirų
Čiobrelių
Kaparėlių
Alyvuogių
Salotų

Triušį sukapokite mažais gabaliukais, įtrinkite druska, pipirais. Kartu su
mėsa į dubenį dėkite čiobrelių, kaparėlių, juodųjų ir žaliųjų alyvuogių
(nepjaustytų), pilkite vyno, aliejaus ir viską gerai išmaišykite. Dubenį
palikite šaldytuve per naktį. 

Kitą dieną mėsą išimkite iš marinato (jo neišpilkite), nusausinkite ir
pakepinkite su sviestu (sviestą lygiomis dalimis galima maišyti su aliejumi, nes
vienas sviestas greitai sudega).

Apkeptą mėsą dėkite į gilią formą, supilkite marinatą, dar pilkite sultinio
(skystis turi iki pusės apsemti mėsą), dėkite dideliais gabalais supjaustytas
bulves. Uždengtą foliją troškinį dėkite į 150oC karštumo orkaitę maždaug 3–3,30
val.

Kepant stebėkite troškinį, jei skysčio daugiau nugaruoja, įpilkite dar
sultinio ar vandens.
Kai bulvės iškeps (jos turi būti labai minkštos, beveik
byrėti) – pilkite vyno, tad bulvės bus troškinamos ilgiau nei paprastai, –
turėtų būti iškepusi ir mėsa. Tiesiog patikrinkite: per 1–1,30 val. triušiena
turėtų iškepti, o troškinant ilgiau ji suminkštėja ir tampa sultinga.

Šis patiekalas gan riebus, sotumo jausmą sustiprins bulvės, tad garnyrui
patiekite paprastų salotų su trupučiu balzamiko padažo.

Naminis produktas
Triušio mėsa yra balta, švelni, liesa.
Ji lengvai virškinama, skoniu panaši į veršieną, struktūra – į vištieną.

Savo maistingumu triušiena prilygsta daugelio gyvulių mėsai. Triušiai neturi
daug riebalų, bet, palyginti su jautienos ir avienos riebalais, juose yra
daugiau žmogui reikalingų nesočiųjų riebiųjų rūgščių, vitamino A.
„Triušiena
dar vadinama švariausia mėsa. Teigiama, kad ji švaresnė ir už vištieną“, – dėsto
p. Dmitrijus.
Maistui tinka visa triušio mėsa. Priekinė gyvūno kūno dalis
yra liesesnė, užpakalinė – riebesnė ir maistingesnė.

Retame restorane galima paragauti triušienos patiekalų. Virtuvės meistras
vardija priežastis, kodėl viešojo maitinimo įstaigos vengia jų siūlyti.
Pirmiausia, pasak jo, norint pagaminti skanų patiekalą iš triušienos, reikia
daug laiko. Kitas dalykas, triušio mėsa turi specifinį skonį ir kvapą, kuris
patinka ne visiems. Ponas Dmitrijus pasakoja: anksčiau viename iš „Da Antonio“
restoranų dienos pietums svečiams siūlė ragauti triušienos, bet patiekalas
didelio populiarumo nesulaukė.

„Ir gaminti jį buvo sudėtinga: mėsą reikia marinuoti mažų mažiausiai
pusantros valandos. Taigi triušio greitai ir bet kada neiškepsi. Pagamintas
patiekalas ilgai „nesilaiko“: per dieną neparduosi, kitą dieną – jau bus
neskanu“, – pasakoja p. Babenka. Skanų patiekalą iš triušienos pagaminti reikia
gerų 3–4 val. Jo nuomone, tai „naminis“ produktas.

Reikia marinuoti
„Triušio mėsa sausa – panašiai, kaip
vištienos krūtinėlė. Sultingesnės šlaunelės, bet vėlgi – vištos šlaunelės
minkštesnės. Triušiai beveik neturi riebalų, todėl jų mėsą prieš kepant ar
troškinant būtina marinuoti“, – aiškina profesionalas.

Kaip minėta, ši mėsa turi specifinį kvapą, todėl ją marinuojant dažnai
naudojamas vynas – gėrimas sušvelnina ne visiems patinkantį kvapą. Pašnekovas
pataria: įtrinti triušienos gabaliukus prieskoninėmis žolelėmis, tada užpilti
vynu ir aliejumi. Aliejus reikalingas, kad mėsa neprarastų savo ir taip negausių
sulčių ir būtų minkštesnė, o vynas – dėl to paties kvapo.

Triušienai pagardinti dera čiobreliai, česnakas, tradicinės prieskoninės
žolelės.
Virtuvės meistras siūlo dar vieną marinavimo variantą: iš druskos,
pipirų, žolelių ir trupučio alyvuogių aliejaus sumaišyti „košelę“, įtrinti ja
mėsą (tokia košė tinka ne tik triušienai) ir palikti marinuotis bent valandą,
dar geriau – per naktį.

„Kuo ilgiau triušiena bus marinuojama, tuo ji bus sultingesnė, aromatingesnė,
greičiau iškeps“, – kalba p. Dmitrijus.
Kad triušiena nebūtų sausa, virtuvės
meistrai dažnai į ją prismaigo lašinių. Mėsos gabaliukuose peiliu įpjaunamos
skylutės, į įpjovas dedama šaldytų lašinių juostelių. Kepant lašiniai tirpsta,
riebalai įsigeria į mėsą, ją sudrėkina, suminkština.

„Nebūtina triušienos marinuoti su vynu – receptų, jei gaminsite, rasite
įvairių. Bet man šios mėsos kvapas nelabai patinka, taigi be vyno aš
neapsieinu“, – sako pašnekovas ir pasakoja istoriją, kaip mėgino sukurti tokį
triušienos patiekalą, kurį bet kada galėtų pagaminti restorano svečiams.
Bandymas nepavyko: kepė jis triušieną gal 4 kartus, o mėsa, nors ir buvo
apvyniota lašinukais, vis tiek buvo sausa. Išvada paprasta: triušieną marinuoti
būtina ir geriau ją troškinti, nei paprastai kepti.

Skonių jungtys
Triušis paprastai sveria 1,2–1,5 kg. Iš
tiek mėsos paruošto troškinio, kalba p. Dmitrijus, užteks pamaitinti 6
žmonėms.

„Sukapoji triušį gabaliukais, mėsą marinuoji, paskui ją apkepi ir troškini“,
– trumpai svarbiausius gaminimo žingsnius vardija p. Babenka.

„Orkaitėje galima kepti ir visą triušį, kaip vištą. Bet jis niekad nebus
sultingas. Geriau jį troškinti: su vynu, sultiniu, bulvėm, svogūnais, česnakais,
morkomis, obuoliais, kitom daržovėm, prieskoninėm žolelėm. Tada mėsos ir visų
priedų skoniai, kvapai susijungia, o kartu pagamini ir padažo“, – kalba virtuvės
meistras.

Derinių, su kuo ir kaip troškinti triušieną, – daugybė.
„Prieš troškinant
apkepti mėsą geriausia ant paprasto sviesto. Mėsa apskrunda, spalva jos
gražesnė, o sviestas malonaus skonio suteikia“, – pamoko meistras ir diktuoja
troškinio su grietine receptą.

Apkeptą mėsą jis deda į gilią keptuvę arba kepimo formą, kartu į ją suberia
priedus – daržoves, prieskonius. Paskui viską užpila sultiniu, jei šio nėra –
vandens, tada deda grietinės. Skysčio keptuvėje turi būti tiek, kad jis pusiau
apsemtų mėsą. Jei kepimo indas be dangčio, jį uždengia folija. Paskui būsimą
patiekalą deda į maždaug 150oC karštumo orkaitę ir troškina kelias valandas.

„Kas valandą skysčio mažėja. Jeigu matai, kad mėsą dar reikia troškinti,
skysčio įpili daugiau. Baigiant troškinti padažo turi likti tiek, kad užtektų
užsipilti visiems valgytojams“, – sako p. Dmitrijus ir priduria: skani bus
triušiena, troškinta su obuoliais, pomidorais ar jų padažu, kaparėliais,
žaliosiomis ir juodosiomis alyvuogės, bulvėmis, svogūnais.

Triušienos receptas. Rekomenduoja D. Babenko
VZ.lt

Rodyk draugams

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